Step 0: Ensure you have all parts as shown above.
Step 1: You should have three Perspex parts.
Step 2: Remove the protective film from the Chassis.
Step 3: Orient the chassis so that the spoon shaped cutout is at the bottom and the oval is to the right. Add one of the [small advanced motor brackets] and make sure it is oriented so that the side of the bracket with 7 holes is towards the chassis
Step 4: Place 4x [M3x10 Cheese screws] in the bracket and through the 4 holes of the chassis.
Step 5: Add 4x [M3 Nyloc nuts] the the underside of the screws and tighten. This is a good time to check that the orientation of the "spoon" and the direction the motor bracket are correct as per image.
Step 6: Add the other three [small advanced motor brackets] in the same fashion. Tighten.
Step 7: Take one of the [P25UK12 motors] and put the shaft through the hole of the motor bracket.
Step 8: Rotate the motor until the holes in the bracket align with the threads in the motor. One pair of holes will not align correctly, if this happens keep turning the motor until you get to the other pair.
Step 9: Add a [M3 spring washer] to a [M3x6 Cheese head screw] and screw in to the thread. Don't tighten yet. Place another washer onto another screw and screw into the other thread. Once both are in, tighten both. When the spring washer is collapsed (flat), it is tight.
Step 10: Add another [P25UK12 motor] to the other side. Carefully move the wires out of both motors out of the way and with the correct angle and a bit of patience, it will fit in. These motors are close together to keep the robot footprint small.
Step 11: Repeat steps 9 & 10 for the remaining 3 motors.
Step 12: Gently bend the motor cables away from the center of the chassis as pictured. Don't pull too hard!
Step 13: Add the [M3x30mm Nylon Posts] from the motor side with the thread through the front two holes of the chassis. Add [M3 Nylon Nuts] and tighten. Add the other two posts to the outer holes as shown in the image.
Step 14: The Raspberry Pi Zero will need to have a [6 pin female header] soldered to the underside of Pins 1-6. The 6 pin header comes with the kit. For a great soldering guide please see here. If you don't wish to solder this yourself, Pi Zeros are available with this connector pre soldered on our website here.
Step 15: Screw the [M2.5x12 posts] onto the ZeroBorg and with the [M2.5 screws] on the battery side of the board. You should end up with the thread from the white posts facing up as per image.
Step 16: Put the Raspberry Pi Zero over the top of the ZeroBorg and screw in the [M2.5x6mm posts].
Step 17: Board and Pi zero should be aligned correctly on the 6 pin header as per image.
Step 18: Take black and red cable from the motor which is closest to the oval of the "spoon" (motor 4) and put the black cable in the rightmost connector on the ZeroBorg (M4-). Place the Red from this same motor into the very next closest connector (M4+).
Step 19:Take the cables from the front motor on the same side of the oval of the "spoon" (motor 3). This should go into the next connector along with black to the Zeroborg (M3-) terminal, and red to the (M3+) terminal.
|Motor cable||ZeroBorg terminal|
|Motor 1 black||M1+|
|Motor 1 red||M1-|
|Motor 2 black||M2+|
|Motor 2 red||M2-|
|Motor 3 black||M3-|
|Motor 3 red||M3+|
|Motor 4 black||M4-|
|Motor 4 red||M4+|
Step 21: Take the Velcro tie and wrap it around the Raspberry Pi and ZeroBorg so that the tail is on the battery holder side. Orient the Pi so that the Terminal blocks (where the red and black wires are connected into) is facing the rear of the robot.
Step 22: Gently open the Pi camera ribbon cable connector. Insert the Pi Zero camera cable into the Pi.
Step 23: Gently close the camera ribbon cable connector as shown in the picture.
Step 24: Rotate the ZeroBorg and Raspberry Pi block so that it fits through the 4 holes of the chassis. Be careful not to disconnect the camera cable. You might need to move around the motor cables to get this to fit. Take your time here and be gentle! Once it is in place, put the four [M2.5 Nylon nuts] on the posts.
Step 25: I like to put the battery in at this point to make sure the straps and cables are out of the way and in the correct place. If not, you can replace the Pi easily and change their location. Of course, the Pi will power up, so remove the battery once you are happy everything is OK, or you can remove the power jumper with a pair of tweezers through the "spoon".
Step 26: When installing the velcro strap over the battery, make sure it is fairly central - that is that it is in the middle of the battery, and that the head and tail of the velcro strap have an equal amount of length to go around the battery as pictured.
Step 27: Remove the standard ribbon cable from the Pi camera by opening the connector gently.
Step 28: Insert the 2x [M2x8 nylon screws] into the perspex and through the camera. Place a washer and a nut on the back of the camera and tighten gently.
Step 29: Note the location of the washers and nuts.
Step 30: Connect the ribbon cable into the Pi camera. Close the black clamp on the camera connector gently.
Step 31: Make a bend in the cable at about 8cm / 3 inches from the edge of the Pi. Very gently fold it so that the end of the cable goes underneath and towards the back of the robot. Don't put too much pressure into the fold or you could damage the cable.
Step 32: Put the camera into the slot on the chassis. The connector side should be down - towards the perspex of the chassis as pictured. Be careful not to pull the ribbon cable out of the Pi - the tiny Pi Zero connector doesn't clamp the cable very tight!
Step 33: Place the C shaped piece of perspex on the posts. Make sure the camera cable doesn't get caught between the post and perspex. Add the [M3x8 nylon screws] and tighten.
Step 34: Take a brass hub, and with the allen key gently undo the grub screws so that you can't see them poking through into the hole where the shaft will go. Align the hub so that the grub screw and the flat part of the motor shaft are both pointing the same way. Slide the hub onto the shaft.
Step 35: Align the hub so that the end of the hub is just beyond the motor screws. The image on the top right shows correct alignment. Make sure the allen key is completely in the grub screw before you tighten as you can strip the grub screw head. Tighten the grub screw on the flat side first, then tighten the other side, then the flat side again. These want to be fairly tight.
Step 36: Repeat the above step for all 4 hubs.
Step 37: Take a wheel and put it on the hub. Screw a [M4x6 cheese screw] into the hub.
Step 38: Tighten the screw whilst holding the wheel.
Step 39: Repeat steps 37 and 38 for all 4 wheels.
Step 40: You are ready to go :)